Freelancer Jennifer Margulis and her daughter Athena were recently on assignment on the Big Island. Jennifer brought back these memories of one of her stops. Please welcome our “guest!”

The first most visited tourist attraction on the Big Island? Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park. The second? The Hawaiian Tropical Botanical Garden.

Located just north of Hilo and tucked away on a “Scenic Drive,” this 60-acre non-profit botanical garden has talking macaws (look for Ono, she’s the jealous squawky one who will say “Pretty bird!” and “Aloha!” if you talk to her), ocean views, a naturally filtered pond filled with koi and lily pads, a bromeliad garden, a breathtaking waterfall, a quirky museum of Asian art and Hawaiian artifacts (many of which were discovered during the eight years it took the garden founders to clear the land), and a great gift shop.

It’s not the cheapest activity on the Big Island (Admission is $15/adults, $5/ages 6-16, free for children 5 and under) but all of the proceeds go to upkeep and maintenance of the gardens, and Hawai‘i’s school children (teachers, are you reading this?) are always welcome for an educational visit for free.

When we were visiting the Big Island from our hometown of Ashland, Oregon, my 8-year-old daughter and I decided to check it out. Athena loved the downhill path (free electric cart rides are available for anyone who is mobility impaired) where we passed anthurium leaves large enough to put your whole head in and black bat plants just coming into bloom.

After that we headed over to the Bird House and watched as Sean Callahan, the garden manager, went into the cage with the nosiy macaws and fed them peanuts while they chuckled, teased, and nipped him. He emerged from the cage with his arms scratched and bleeding, the macaws (especially Ono) crying furiously for him to come back.

After that we sniffed orchids that smelled like chocolate cake and marveled at others that looked like insects, walked past heliconias with hanging lobster-like claws, flowering ginger plants, and palm trees, and headed over to Lily Lake. Callahan brought over some koi food and as Athena and other children visiting the gardens fed the fat fish he pointed out the betel nut palm in the middle of the lake and explained that the nut is such a popular stimulant that when the garden had several palms people would actually come into at night to steal them, once sawing down a betel nut tree. Callahan also pointed out the two varieties of day-blooming water lilies (they close up at night) that decorate the pond: Panama Pacific and Scar of Siam.

Next stop was a walk by the ocean along Ocean Vista Drive where you can see humpback whales from November to March. We stopped for a photo op of Athena next to a hulking hand-carved monkey pod tiki made by a local carver named Rocky Vargas (the tiki, “Ku” is the belligerent god of wisdom, strength, and courage). Then we met Mani, an older gentleman sitting under a tent playing Hawaiian love songs on his ‘ukulele, and whose smile and tanned tattooed arms were enough to break any girl’s heart.

We saved the best for last: a short walk to the waterfalls, each more spectacular than the next. The last one is the best and as you stand on the bridge admiring the cascading water and cooling off under a forest canopy you can feel the magic of the place. When it was finally time to go, Athena opted for a cart ride up to the gift shop but I walked, passing a couple who had stopped to catch their breath on the steep climb (wear sturdy shoes).

After all that botany it was fun to admire the Japanese sculptures, Chinese coins, glass bottles, and chunks of Hawaiian wood in the Onomea Museum inside the gift shop.

Another thing to factor into the price: the T-shirts are fantastic and the hand-carved wooden animals exquisite. Athena, who collects turtles, just had to have an ironwood one. And I just had to buy it for her.

Just the Basics:

Hawaiian Tropical Garden
27-717 Old Mamalahoa Highway
808-964-5233

The garden is open from 9:00 a.m. – 4:00 p.m. daily except Christmas, New Year’s, and Thanksgiving.

Open rain or shine. If it rains they lend you umbrellas.
Wear walking shoes and bring bug spray (or buy some from the gift shop).

Admission: $15 for adults, $5 ages 6-16, free for children 5 & under

Jennifer Margulis, Ph.D., is a professional freelance writer who specializes in travel, culture, and parenting articles.  For more information, visit her website at www.jennifermargulis.net.